2008年5月8日 星期四

"How the Game Starts and the Nature of Capturing Nodes

"As mentioned briefly above, at the start of an Arathi Basin match, every node on the map is marked ‘neutral’. This is a unique stance for a node, and only happens at the beginning of a match. When somebody captures a node from its neutral state, they must hold that location for 1 minute (meaning not allow the opposition to capture it for their side). When you capture a node from neutral stance, it will be marked In Conflict in your team’s favor (meaning the map will show half of the node marked the color of your faction, and the other half blank – noting both that it is contested but in a certain team’s favor). If you are successful in holding that node for 1 minute, your team will fully capture the resource node and it will be marked either Horde Controlled or Alliance Controlled depending on your faction. If, for example, the Horde capture the Lumber Mill while it is neutral at the start of the match, but before the 1 minute timer expires the Alliance charge through and cap (capture) it for themselves, then the Alliance will get the In Conflict stance for that node in their favor. It is different, however, when one side captures a resource node that is in full control of the opposition. For example, the Alliance control the Blacksmith fully, and the Horde push through and cap the Blacksmith flag, then the node will be marked In Conflict for the Horde. Note: During ANY In Conflict stance of a resource node, that graveyard won’t resurrect either side. Both sides will resurrect at the nearest graveyard. However, if the Alliance in the example above come back and defend the Blacksmith before the new 1 minute timer has expired, then the node will simply be back in their possession – it won’t be In Conflict because they already had control of it, and only allowed the Horde to contest it (contest is another term for putting a resource node In Conflict).
" "Learning how to effectively fight and tackle resource nodes in Arathi Basin is the difference between winning and losing. Experienced guilds can steamroll Pick-Up-Groups (also known as PUG’s) just by having good experience battling in small groups and having a good battle plan. If you are just starting the match, then the battle will be to take control of the neutral nodes. It’s a bit of chess and luck, because you won’t know where the enemy will send most of their troops, and how they will divide themselves. Will they send a large force to take the Smith and send smaller groups to the Mine and Lumber Mill. Will they even bother with the Mine. Will they try to take the Mine, Blacksmith and Lumber Mill. You must assess your own plan and be ready. Each group should have at least 1 healer (Druid, Shaman, Paladin, Priest), and a variety of classes are good. Mages are always useful to sheep, and Priests/Warriors to fear. Charging in, you want Warriors/Paladins /Druid’s-in-BearForm first so people target them first. Rogues and Druids in cat-form should sneak around the sides and flank the enemy casters from behind. The rest of the cloth wearers should stay back, and heal and begin to do their jobs. Here is an in-depth guide of a class’ job during an offensive on an opposition-owned node: Warrior: You’re the first in. wow lvl Use charge to get to your enemies fast and if there are a clump of them, feel free to rout them by your AoE fear. Spreading them out helps their healers lose focus and makes them attack you as soon as they are out of fear. Go for healers/casters/rogues first, as you take them down with ease. wow power leveling Have a healer designated to shield and heal your butt (although sometimes shield is very noticeable and draws attention to the Priest).
Paladin: Along with the Warrior, charge in first. Don’t really focus on doing damage. Ever quest platinum If you have consecrate, feel free to spam it to provide a bit of damage and uncover any Rogues prancing around. Your main job (and the one you’re must useful as) is providing support. If you see a Priest or Mage going down, pop Lay On Hands or Blessing or Protection, and use your blessings/buffs/heals to keep your team up. wow europe If you see an important Warrior going down, and he’s a real asset, use your shield and heal him up without interruption. People ignore Paladins because they are low DPS, so make them pay for it by providing heals. Rogues: You don’t want to be the focal point of a fight. gold in wow On the attack, flank the sides and avoid AoE damage. It’s best to hit and preoccupy Priests and Druids first so they spend their time trying to kill you instead of healing their teammates. Next go for Mages, then Warlocks, and work your way up the chain. Paladins are dead-last on your list, after Warriors.

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Tips and Tricks

"Scouting: If you have a cat with the Prowl ability, you can use Eyes of the Beast to explore an area. This can be useful if you're looking for a particular room or boss, or just if you want to see what's around the corner (beyond tracking range). Sniping: A popular (and controversial) trick is to Shadow Meld – and put your pet in Prowl if possible – and wait for an enemy to appear. You can charge up Aimed Shot or Steady Shot, getting a powerful surprise attack. This is considered cheap by many, and it won't work if the person moves too close or just runs out of range. Use at your own discretion. Stealthing: Another night-elf only trick, this one to get through mob-infested areas solo (prime example would be the blue dragonkin cave in Winterspring). When you can't avoid mobs any further, run until you're in a semi-clear spot, then FD. After the mobs reset, click Shadow Meld, and wait in Shadow Meld until your FD is cooled down, as well as for health if necessary. If your FD isn't resisted, and if pats don't move too close while you're in SM, then you can use this trick to get through otherwise dangerous areas. Other hunters can do this as well, just without the benefit of staying hidden while FD cools down. It's not fast, but it can get you places you otherwise can't solo. Vicious Wrath: The level 50 Hunter quests end with a choice of 3 rewards. The first is a spear, the second is the Devilsaur Eye, the final is the Devilsaur Tooth. wow lvl I'd recommend getting the Devilsaur Tooth: it's the only trinket of its kind. The Devilsaur Tooth guarantees a crit on your pet's next attack. If you activate Bestial Wrath and Devilsaur Tooth at the same time, then your pet enters battle dealing 150% damage at 30% increased attack speed, plus an additional 3% if you have Ferocious Inspiration.
level wow AoE Blast Zone: A frost trap can be used to bunch mobs together for mages/locks to AoE. It is even more effective if you have the Entrapment talent and it procs. Mass Crowd-control: Place a trap and wait 30 seconds for it to cool down. cheap world of warcraft gold Once that trap goes off, you can instantly drop another trap, having two active at one time. Survivalists can take this even further, fairly easily catching up to 5 mobs with traps, Wyvern Stings, and Readiness. Rear guard: If you and a group are riding somewhere, watch everyone's back. wow gold If a mob starts chasing one of your party and dismounts them, you can ride just a few steps in front of the mob, dismount, Freeze Trap, Aspect of the Pack. Frost trap if there's multiple attackers. Screenshots: An underused ability, you can use Eagle Eye to get close up screenshots of dangerous things. wow gold Like angry dragons. Scorpid Mana Drain: If you duel a paladin or druid, who can both cure poison, then wearing them down with viper sting is not all that effective. However, if you have a scorpid and poison the target before using Viper Sting, then the player will have to cure the Scorpid Poison first (once for each time it is stacked).

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Pets

"What's the best pet. For any pet-related information, I would strongly recommend visiting Good Intentions and Petopia. Much of the information here, and more, can be found on these sites. At level 10, a hunter needs to return to their home area to get their taming quests. The quests are simple, self-explanatory. One thing: be sure to do the next quest right away. Once you learn how to tame a pet, you need to do another quest to learn how to train a pet. If you don't do that, you cannot feed your pet, and it will run away. To reiterate: There are two quests at level 10 and you must do them both or your pet will run away. You cannot tame a pet that is a higher level than you. Pets level up faster than their owners, but they do not gain exp if they are the hunter's level. This is so that a pet will never be higher level than the hunter. Pets vary into four basic types: high hp, high armor, high damage, all-around. Scorpids and Turtles are some high armor pets, while Bears, Gorillas, and Tallstriders have high health. Either type is good for tanking. High damage pets include Cats, Wind Serpents, and Ravagers. For pets that are decent across the board, Boars, Carrion Birds, and Wolves are the way to go. When you first tame a pet, it will be at Loyalty level one, and Unhappy. Happiness affects your pet's damage (and if they're Unhappy long enough they will leave). You can feed your pet to raise their Happiness – wait until your pet finishes eating before giving them a second piece of food, or the first piece will be wasted. You can open your character panel, click the pet tab, and hold your cursor over the green icon to see what your particular pet eats.

At Unhappy (red), your pet only does 75% damage. At Content (yellow), they do 100%. When they're Happy (green), they do 125% damage. wow powerleveling As long as your pet is either content or happy, he gains Loyalty. Your Loyalty can go up to level six (Best Friend), which is necessary for getting the most training points. The number of training points you have is equal to (Loyalty Level - 1) * (Pet Level) -- meaning the max you can ever have is 5 training points per level. power level What's the best pet. There is no ""best pet,"" but there may be a best pet for you. What pet is best for you depends on a lot of things. wow gold kaufen Do you like looks. Damage. Speed. wow power leveling Would you like a pet that can sneak up on your enemies, or one that gets in their face. The best advice I can give you is to experiment with lots of pets, and stick with the one you like best. " "Aggressive Your pet will attack anything in range. You should save this for very limited situations, when the mobs are coming to you and there's nothing nearby that you don't want the pet to attack. gold wow A good safety precaution is to always set your pet to Stay when you put it on Aggressive (that way you cannot forget to change stance before moving on). wowhunterzone Defensive Your pet will attack anything that hits it, or anything that hits you. Good stance for lower levels and for soloing.

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"Races

"The race you choose isn't overly important. Starting stats are all but irrelevant at higher levels. There are currently seven choices for a hunter: Draenei, Night Elf, and Dwarf on the Alliance; Blood Elf, Tauren, Orc, and Troll on the Horde. Some racials that are noteworthy for a hunter: Blood Elf: Magic Resistance. The nature resist will stack with Aspect of the Wild. Arcane Torrent. If casters get too close, this can help even the odds. Orc: Increased pet damage. Self-explanatory Blood Fury. Increases your attack power for both ranged and melee.Attack Power, +Crit, or +Hit are also good, and become more readily available in later levels. You don't want weapons with Chance on hit: Wound target, or something along those lines, if there's equipment to be had with ranged stats on it. The same principle holds true for enchants. Armor: The first 40 levels are a pain for armor, because you have to fight off the rogues for it if you're in a group. The primary stat for both classes is agility. Much of the time you're likely to be soloing, though. After level 40, hunters are in competition with shamans for mail armor. Since shaman armor seems to be more common, though, hunters are at a noticeable disadvantage. Some hunters roll on leather armor after 40. The reasoning is that the stats are often better for a hunter, and the loss of armor is negligible when a hunter shouldn't be getting hit anyway. Be wary if you go that route, because you will cause bad blood with any rogues you outroll in an instance. Be sure to discuss it with the group ahead of time if you plan to roll on leather, as the last thing you want or need is to be labeled a ninja-looter (especially if you're labeled a ninja for just rolling). Pets: Pets gain a percentage of some of the hunter's stats. These are Armor, Stamina, Resists, and Ranged Attack Power*. This is one other reason not to use leather armor, since it would reduce your pet's armor class. This is also the reason why Beast Masters will typically have lower crit rates than other hunters. Our pets don't gain a percentage of Agi (though they do gain some of the RAP from it) or of crit%.
The most efficient way to boost both your damage and your pet's is to gather AP-heavy gear, and try to fill in crit% on the side. *Ranged Attack Power boosts both your pet's Melee Attack Power and Spell Damage. About melee as a hunter. Hunter abilities are all centered around the ability to deal damage from a distance. Hunters don't have the armor of warriors, or the high evasion abilities of a rogue. They don't have instant damage attacks, or any good stat debuffs. A hunter's melee abilities are almost all reactionary: when you parry, when you dodge, when someone gets too close. The ones that have status affects universally are made to help you get back out of melee range. Beyond those, hunters' traps (Frost and Freeze), Feign Death, Concussive Shot, and the pet are all developed around the need to keep enemies at range or get out of their melee range. Damage is the last concern when you're in melee range. " Tauren: Endurance. 5% extra health is great for any class. War Stomp. Great in many situations, this can help get you back to range. Troll: Throwing Specialization. This now includes +5 to bows. Berserking. This can be activated at will, providing a 10-30% haste effect depending on your health. Draenei: Heroic Presence. Buffs your party members' chance to hit, including your pet. Gift of the Naaru. A useful heal-over-time that can work together with Mend Pet or keep you alive if you get caught in melee. Dwarf: Gun Specialization. Self-explanatory. power leveling Stoneform. Can give you a distinct advantage in hunter vs. hunter. wow power leveling Night Elf: Shadow Meld. Can be use in conjunction with the cat ability Prowl (and/or Aimed Shot) for ambushing. Quickness. guild wars gold Increased 1% dodge chance if mobs get in melee range. " "This is a somewhat important note, which is why it's up at the top. Hunters are capable of using lots of equipment. wow gold This does not mean they should use anything and everything that ""upgrades"" what they have. You do not need to concern yourself with melee DPS, ever. Bows/rifles are, obviously, the most important consideration. lord of the rings online gold Ranged DPS is your main focal point where gear is concerned.
When getting melee weapons, you want weapons with stats that help your ranged attack. Agility is a prime example (+1 Ranged Attack per point of Agil).

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